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Master the art of self-portrait photography
Portrait and fashion photographer Wanda Martin took this self-portrait while in lockdown during the Covid-19 pandemic. "The circular shape is a reference to self-isolation," she explains. "Romantic literature characters inspired my images, as did John Everett Millais' famous painting of Ophelia from Shakespeare's Hamlet." Taken on a Canon EOS-1D X Mark II (now succeeded by the Canon EOS-1D X Mark III) with a Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM lens at 8mm, 1/640 sec, f/10 and ISO800. © Wanda Martin
Self-portrait photography offers an excellent opportunity for self-reflection. Something you can do wherever and whenever the mood takes you, self-portraiture not only extends the opportunity to get creative with lighting, backdrops and settings, it also allows photographers to gain a deeper understanding of what it takes to convey expression and personality.
Hungarian portrait and fashion photographer Wanda Martin honed her photography skills by shooting self-portraits inspired by her favourite Pre-Raphaelite paintings. Today she shoots for a range of international magazines, including Vogue and Glamour, as well as brands such as Marc Jacobs, Dior and Burberry.
"Looking at those pictures now, I would probably do them quite differently, but self-portrait photography taught me a lot about composition, lighting, posing, set design, styling and post-production," she says. "When I started working professionally as a photographer I had less time for personal projects, so I stopped taking self-portraits. Now I'm going back to my origins."
Marina Karpiy is a wedding and portrait photographer who splits her time between Ukraine and Georgia. She used her time in lockdown to fill her Instagram feed with reams of creative selfies. Here, the two pros share their self-portrait tips.
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1. Light with care
"Reflected light cools the skin," Marina explains. "If you have white walls, use them to reflect the light, or create a 'reflector', using an A4 sheet of paper or anything with a shiny surface, to bounce the light off. This will reduce shadows and add a beautiful sparkle to the eyes."
Wanda is also a big fan of experimenting with whatever light sources you have to hand. "Matches, candles, desk lamps, Christmas tree lights… you can get really creative with light using things you have lying around the house," she says. "For example, if you want a spotlight, just grab a torch and wrap a plastic bag over the top to soften the effect.
"The most flattering light for your face, however, is soft, frontal lighting coming through a window, as it illuminates the face evenly, without any shadows. When the light is coming from the side, or from above or below, or if we use harder light, it can create a more dramatic effect, but it can be less flattering. Ultimately, the lighting you use depends on the mood and the message you want to convey."
"My self-portraits reflect how women have been represented throughout the history of art," explains Wanda. "There's an element of liberation as a female photographer taking pictures of myself recreating the same poses." Taken on a Canon EOS-1D X Mark II with a Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM lens at 24mm, 1/60 sec, f/6.3 and ISO3200. © Wanda Martin
"The most important thing for me is light and colour, because I love everything neutral," says Marina Karpiy. "For me, white and beige is the perfect palette." Taken on a Canon EOS R with a Canon RF 50mm F1.2L USM lens at 1/400 sec, f/1.4 and ISO100. © Marina Karpiy
2. Play with composition
"Know the rules of composition and then break them," Marina says. "I like to think more about emotions and the message of the shot. But, if I can, I try to follow the 'rule of thirds' and place information or details I consider to be important at intersection points."
Wanda agrees: "Subconsciously I might use these rules, but I believe photography now is more about fusing what was traditionally thought of as 'beautiful' with something out of the ordinary. My work always has an anachronistic element."
3. Create a backdrop
Creating a set or background needn't be expensive or troublesome – wherever you find yourself. Your home offers plenty of creative and characterful options. "Instead of 'professional' backdrops, you can use your curtains, bedsheets or any large piece of fabric you have lying around, such as a beach towel, a throw, or even a picnic rug," says Wanda. "Just hang it on a washing line or tape it up somewhere.
"Take a good look at every corner of your home – every door, every wall – then challenge yourself to create a different atmosphere or a more abstract image: an interesting crop, different lighting, or an unusual angle."
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4. Choose the right kit
When asked what she thinks is the best lens for self-portraiture, Marina opts for the 50mm. "I'm working with a Canon RF 50mm F1.2L USM lens right now and the result I get with my Canon EOS R is amazing," she says. "The Canon EOS R has Eye AF so I don't need to worry about focus – I just look into the lens, and the camera does everything for me. The Canon EOS R also has built-in Wi-Fi and pairs with my smartphone via Bluetooth, so it's quick and easy to edit and share."
Wanda, who typically shoots on a Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, says she prefers to harness the flexibility of a zoom. "I usually use the same zoom for everything – a Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM lens, because it provides me with enormous versatility," she says. "You can create classic close-ups with a shallow depth of field, and you can also create more distorted wide-angle shots that give your images a certain character.
"I've been experimenting with self-portraits using a Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM lens. The distortion expresses how I feel about our weird reality [during lockdown] and the 'closed' circular images shot at 8mm somehow reflect that sense of isolation."
Wanda's homage to Dante Gabriel Rossetti's Lady Lilith. "My flatmate is sunbathing in the background as a reference to our lockdown days. I used a Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM lens and made it black and white in a nod to Dante's Inferno (1967), Ken Russell's BBC film about Rossetti," says Wanda Taken on a Canon EOS-1D X Mark II at 8mm, 1/800 sec, f/6.3 and ISO800. © Wanda Martin
5. Avoid camera shake
By its very definition, self-portraiture puts you in control. But, as Marina explains, there are ways to simplify the process. "A tripod is a must, or, at the very least, a flat, stable surface such as a table, a pile of books or a chair.
"If you're including children in the shot, continuous shooting mode is very useful, and the Canon EOS R can shoot up to 8fps [in One Shot AF mode], plus its vari-angle touchscreen is a boon for checking focus before I shoot. Also, because the Canon EOS R connects to my smartphone I don't need a self-timer – I use the Canon Camera Connect app and then hide the phone so it can't be seen in the photo."
6. Consider your aperture
Just as with lenses, the two photographers prefer different methods when it comes to capturing their self portraits: Wanda prefers manual shooting, whereas Marina chooses to shoot in Aperture priority (Av) mode.
"I like to be in complete control," says Wanda. "I always use a 10-second self-timer and set the focus manually. I wouldn't use a very wide aperture for self-portraits – the shallow depth of field means you could easily be out of focus, so I'd aim for between f/5.6 and f/8."
"A modern take on Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring, including some anachronistic elements, all shot within the confines of my living room," says Wanda. Taken on a Canon EOS-1D X Mark II with a Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM lens at 24mm, 1/80 sec, f/8 and ISO2500. © Wanda Martin
"Usually when shooting a self-portrait, I'm not looking at the camera," says Marina. "Because the Canon EOS R connects with my phone, it's convenient to look at the screen and fire off the shot using the Canon Camera Connect app." Taken on a Canon EOS R with a Canon EF 35mm F1.4L USM lens (now succeeded by the Canon EF 35mm F1.4L II USM) at 1/3 sec, f/1.4 and ISO200. © Marina Karpiy
7. Prepare, then add flair
As with any shoot, Wanda suggests spending a little time planning beforehand, but advises not to let this restrict your creative flow. "Mood boards are a great starting point for deciding on poses, lights, vibe, clothes, hair and make-up," she says. "Then, as you start shooting, the whole process should evolve spontaneously, with new ideas forming throughout. Go with it and don't be afraid to play around. The end result might be totally different from what you imagined – sometimes ideas don't work in real life – but it's still a good starting point. The most important thing is to enjoy the process – and if you learn a few new things at the same time, then all the better."
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Wanda Martin's kitbag
The key kit pros use to take their photographs
Camera
Lenses
Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye USM
A L-series fisheye zoom lens offering a choice of full frame or circular image and a wide angle of view. "I've been experimenting with self-portraits using a fisheye lens," says Wanda. "The distortion expresses how I feel about our weird reality [during lockdown] and the 'closed' circular images shot at 8mm somehow reflect that sense of isolation."
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
A professional everyday L-series zoom that delivers high image quality with a constant f/2.8 aperture. "I usually use the same zoom lens for everything because it provides me with enormous versatility," says Wanda.
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